Sharpening...yeah, everyone has to do it.

So here is a quick little note about what I do with sharpening. I figured since I got to experience it first hand (pun kind of intended), I would spend a few minutes on it. It seems like everyone does, so why not. In general, the method that I currently use is sandpaper. It works, and to start out, it's nice and inexpensive. In the long run...not so much. My more permanent method will likely include diamond stones, but I still have about 6 months of good paper left to use, so until that time, no life-altering decision required.

I keep all my sharpening supplies in a little cabinet I made when I first started a little over a year ago. It is actually the only thing I've made out of plywood. It keeps all my sharpening tools clean, organized, and near-to-hand. It's not perfect in form, but its function is spot on.

There are three removable trays sitting on guide rails that contain all of my grits glued to sheets of glass and mounted on 3/8" plywood. At the top is a removable drawer that holds my sharpening jig, polishing compound, a small screwdriver for removing cap irons and tightening iron in the jig.

I also set up a jig to maintain consistent angles when sharpening. This makes sharpening sessions repeatable which is incredibly important. I have one station set up for establishing a primary bevel on planes. Another station sets the secondary bevel, and the final station is for chisels. I do the secondary bevel on chisels by hand. This is on the right in the picture, held in place by the holdfast.

Someone may want to know how often I sharpen...well, that depends on the tool, the type of wood you're working with, how much you used the tool, and how hard you are on the tools and the tasks being performed. My chisels I sharpen constantly. No, I do not start at 220 up to 2500 and then polishing on the strop every time. Instead, I keep the strop handy, and when I start to feel a difference in the chisel, I polish it. A couple quick swipes is generally all I need. When more than that is needed, I'll usually start around 1000 and work my way up 2 grits to the 2500 and then polish. You'll find that sharpening can be super fast if you stay on top of it. The more dull the tool is, the more time it takes to get it sharp again because you have to start at lower grits to reestablish the bevel edge.

All together, my 4 Stanley plane irons and 5 chisels take about 45 minutes for me to sharpen. If I've got some heavy sharpening to do, that could easily double my time (nicks or establishing a new bevel). This is why I generally sharpen before any project begins or when I can notice a difference in the working of the tool--I don't like to spend a lot of time sharpening. A good time for me is at the end of a project. Since I pull my irons and clean all the shavings and dust out of my planes, 1/3 of the job s already started. Keeping everything pretty sharp and never letting my tools get dull means I am not forced to spend a lot of time mid-project on re-sharpening. Cleaning an edge up a little? Sure. Not full-on sharpening, though.

So, I guess that's about all I can think of right now on this subject, unless someone asks me something that I missed. Oh, what is sharp? It changes the more you do it. The better I get at sharpening, my mark for sharp tools keeps moving up. I have a feeling it will keep doing that.

Until the next one,
Josh

Drama of Workbenches (part 2)--Not really

So here is Josh's workbench version 2. I guarantee there will someday be a version 3. Why? My style of work has changed over the past year or so, and I would be naive to think that I would not change again in the future. Besides, I've already admitted I like my original bench's solid/laminated top. I'll be honest with myself (and to everyone else)... it just looks so much cooler...

This bench is based on Tom's Torsion workbench, which you can find all over the Web. It's a fairly straight forward build, and if you want, it can be really inexpensive (much less than $200) if you select your lumber carefully and then build your own vises.

I won't bore everyone with details on the build (other sites have done that for me and much better than I could). What you have are 4 torsion boxes all bolted together and supporting each other. This thing is heavier than my other bench (I used particle board for the the panels on the legs and back stretcher). This created the mass I was looking for, and the torsion design means I have NO movement or sway in the bench. It is definitely rock solid.

The only thing I will say is there is a LOT of lumber to cut in a design like this, and I did it all by hand. If you want to learn to cut a straight and perpendicular edge? Try a project like this or do a dog strip by hand. Cut after cut after cut...all the same thing... Either A) you'll get pretty good and finding what works and creating nice cuts by the end, or B) you'll get so fed up with it that the next time you look at a hand saw you'll scream and curl up in the corner. I won't tell you which corner I hid in...

The things I modified are fairly straight forward. I love my holdfasts, so those HAD to stay. I actually built a solid block underneath the top that I bored a hole though for my holdfasts. Each block is held in place by other bracing, and after a few months, I haven't had any issues in regards to the holdfasts not holding. If it ever comes to that, I'll just figure something else out. I NEED my holdfasts.

The other modification is the shoulder vise instead of a traditional English style face vise. This is mainly due to the fact that I REALLY got tired of the bars in the way, but I explained that in a previous post. I used a press screw I bought off Amazon. It gives me plenty of travel and pressure. Someday I'd love to have a wooden screw, but not until I can make my own, which is part of the reason why this one looks temporary.

The final change I made was the end vise. Where the original version of the bench called for a wooden handscrew to use as the end vise, I've modified that as well (though only after trying out the handscrew for a couple months first). For this vise I also used another press clamp from Amazon. I didn't want the screw to move in and out on the outside of the bench, so I used the clamping piece that you're supposed to use on the handle to attach the dog block and firmly attached the end of the screw to the dog in front of it. This limits my travel to only a couple inches, but I've drill two dog holes in the vise to compensate for the overall lack of travel. I've seen other versions of this that allow the screw to move in and out of the bench, but all I could
imagine was me running into it on the way to my plane cabinet. Not good.

So that's about it. I'm still working on my old bench to see what I can do to make it more stable and still able to move when I need to pack it up (for future reference). It will be some kind of monster by the time I'm done playing with it. Also if I find a new vise idea, I can easily try it out there first, and for now, it makes a great assembly table or extra work surface when I need it. I enjoy making them a whole lot more than buying them, that's for sure. Until then!

Josh

More Shop Storage-Quick Clamp Rack

Everywhere you read about woodworking, there's one (of many) common threads: you can never have too many clamps. I have to agree. Almost every other project I work on, I think to myself--at least once--that it would have been a lot easier if I had another clamp. This has led to my being the proud owner of about 20 F-style and Quick Grip clamps. In building my table for my belt/disc sander, I incorporated some through rods that allow some clamps to just hook over it, and then the other clamps just rest over the edge.

It's not the prettiest, but it definitely works. It's a table I don't use every day in the shop, so the clamps remain out of the way. What I don't like, however, is that when I do use the clamps, I sometimes accidentally pull others off with the one I wanted. I also have to bend down to get the quick grips. Not so cool. I don't like bending down and reaching blindly for my tools.

Since I've been building shop storage stuff, this is next on the list. I had several ideas, so now all that's left is to try out an idea I've got for a 2x6 and some 3/4" dowels. I happen to have those handy.

Basically I just took the 2x6 and drilled some 3/4" holes. I didn't go all the way through so that the glue wouldn't spill out the back and create a mess I'd have to clean up later.

Then I planed it. I should have done that first because it was a little warped. This will make it look better, but really this is just a personal preference. I mainly just like using my planes. It's amazing how you can make construction lumber look completely different with a sharp plane and a couple minutes of elbow grease. My shop storage stuff is more functional than anything else. This one is really just that....practical.

Next is the big rip. 45 DEG for the french cleat to match what is already on my wall...I wish I had a better rip saw, but my inexpensive Japanese pull saw will work just fine for this...

Then I clean up the angle from the saw cut. This will true up the edge and make a smoother surface to rest against the piece on the wall.

Done with the block plane and jointer plane...

Then glue up the cleat to the main piece...

Glue the dowels in the holes...

And then put it up on the wall and start loading it up...

My placement was wrong on the dowels....oops. but it works. If I think I need another one, it's about 2 hrs of work (and that was mainly waiting for the glue to dry.

Now on to the next one...for my parallel and pipe clamps...the wall doesn't like them leaning...

Shop Storage: Cordless Drills

So I was able to finish up the cordless drill holder that I had started prior to my trip to Tucson. I used joints that weren't needed (dovetails) and added some curves and bevels where they weren't required (this is going to sit in my shop) and enjoyed the build and learning process quite a bit. I would definitely recommend the addition of "unnecessary" joinery and fancier features if for nothing more than excellent practice.

This tool holder sits on my wall using the french cleats that I had mounted a couple weeks ago. It holds 3 drills, plus their batteries and chargers. They sit right at the front of my workbench so they are within easy reach. Why are there 3? Well, it's what I had, of course. Plus, having more than one cordless drill let's me keep from having to do multiple bit/drill changes. It also keeps all the gear in one place.

In making the cabinet, I dovetailed the sides onto the bottom. It's strong more than what's needed, but hey, it's practice.

I also decided I'd try beveling the mounting piece that the drill motors rest in. Why? Well, because I haven't tried it before, and I'm sure I'll need to do it for a nicer project in the future. I did them all with a block plane. I started with a different one, but the block plane felt really good for this process. Next time, I know to start with bevels on the ends first, so that way if there is any tearout, it will be removed when I bevel along the grain.

To protect against tearout, I also clamped a backing board in line with the piece between a dog and my end vise.

And now the finished bevel looks pretty good for the first try.

And then I squared up the mating surfaces where this beveled board will rest with my shoulder plane.

Finally I glued it together and mounted it on the wall.

Next step is to mount the outlet underneath so all the cords are out of the way....there's always something else! 

Until next time....

Josh

My Thoughts on a Beginner's Tools...NOT to be Confused With the RULES for Buying Tools

In a previous post I talked about some things that nearly everyone on every blog with tell you to avoid. Cheap tools. In many ways, I can understand the reasons behind steering clear of cheap, low quality tools. First of all, they don’t work as well. They also may not hold an edge for very long, so you wind up sharpening….and sharpening….and sharpening. But I would pose an argument that there is a positive side to inexpensive, poor quality tooling--and no, not just learning to sharpen. As in all things, I believe there is a time and place for just about everything.

No I will not say that everyone should buy this or buy that. That is up to the user. I could really care less if you’re using the latest and greatest chisel or saw from LV or some cheap Chinese knock-off. I believe in personal choices in regards to tools, and I don’t think there is a “one size fits all” method of buying tools. If you want it and can afford it, buy it. It keeps the economy moving. Good for you.

But here are just a few thoughts that I have. Please, bear with me…

My view on cheap tools is very similar to my thoughts on University education. Yes, I am a college graduate. I spent 4 years in school taking classes that honestly have nothing to do with what I do today, and I love what I do and I make a good living doing it. I hate to tell my folks this (no they didn’t pay for all of my schooling, though they helped. I’m still doing that 15 years later), but I wasted four years worth of education at an average priced private college. Oh, and I didn’t get my degree with those years. Awesome. I had changed my major about 3 times in those 4 years, and kept just shelling out or borrowing more and more money. I had to have it right? When you’re 18 that’s exactly what you have to do: leave home, go to school, meet a girl, get your degree, get a job, get married…and so on and so on. At some point I realized that I don’t like throwing my money away.

People ask me today for advice about their kids heading off to college and here is what I tell them I would have/should have done: Community College. Suck it up and keep them at home for another two years. Let them figure out what direction they want their life to start down before you start shelling out the big bucks for what will then only be half of a 4 year degree. This gives them time to get used to school, the less rigid structure, and take some classes and get some experience to find out what they like. There’s no guarantees that what sounds like a good idea at 18-19 years old will still be a good idea at 21-22. Sure, we all wanted to run away from home and start striking out on our own, but was that really the smart thing to do? For some? Sure. Others like me? Nah. Same thing goes for woodworking or any other hobby.

Not everyone is going to like woodworking. Shoot, some people may decide after a couple projects and a month or two in the garage that woodworking is really more of a 3^rd or 4^th hobby or “nice to have in your back pocket” kind of thing rather than a real passion that will want to soak up every bit of free time you can squeeze out. There's no shame in it. We all try things and then realize it was fun, but just not for us.

Now think about it. If this is just a “it’s nice to know” kind of thing, do you really want to buy that $2000 cabinet saw that everyone is raving about? How about a set shiny planes that are the envy of every woodworker? Wow, very cool. Some people will. Go for it. I wish I could do that some days, too. I’ve seen plenty of garage sales and notices with people selling their stuff that I’m sure looked like at really good idea at the time. I like those guys. I buy a lot of stuff from them.

This is where I say to the people just starting out: Don’t go crazy and buy the best tools out there. Not yet, at least. You don’t even know what you want. You’ll find out soon enough, I guarantee it! So do some searches, read some reviews on some less expensive tools. Cheap tools can work just fine, and there actually some good ones out there that don’t cost a body part. They take a little bit of work to get going sometimes, but they do work. (Oh, but SAFE is another thing, especially when working with power tools. Yes, you can still go inexpensive, but don’t sacrifice safety. Just be careful and spend a little time on research) Yes, using the shiny, new, expensive stuff is nicer, smoother, less fuss, and worth the money in many cases, but they still do the same thing. Once I learned to sharpen, guess what my chisels did…they cut a mortise cleanly and pared the shoulder and cheeks of the tenon to my lines. Wow. Amazing.

Learn to sharpen. Sharp is sharp, no matter the tool. Then it’s just a matter of how long it will hold the edge. Trust me, people won’t make fun of you for your tool collection. No skin off my back if you made the entire project with a sharpened claw hammer and some pruning shears. Good for you. I’d love to see how you did it! Sure, tools can be cool, but it’s the wood that everyone really sees and cares about.

The other way to do it is to check out the used market. There is a ton of good stuff out there looking for a new owner. If for some reason you decide woodworking isn't for you, you should at the very least be able to get your money back out of it. Breaking close to even isn't a bad investment at all, considering.

Don’t get me wrong. I want some better quality tools now, but in no way do I regret the paltry amount I spent to get going. Shoot, I’m still deciding if I like Western saws or pull saws better, so I’m definitely not going to go out and buy a custom back saw from some very good makers out there or order my next saw from Japan. That’ll come later… maybe. Currently, I’m slowly upgrading my tool set and to be honest, I have to suggest vintage tools. I love and prefer good vintage user tools, but that is just what it is, my preference. I like the history and getting them working, but that’s me.

So why am I upgrading, because my cheap tools don’t work? Nope, because I now know what I want and how I’m going to use it. I would have hated to spend all that money a year ago and then watched it collecting normal dust, not sawdust, in my garage/shop. Now I can take that $7 set of chisels, which I still use at times today, and use them to beat the heck out of stuff or scrape glue and paint off my garage floor if I want to. I can also modify my cheap, uncomfortable #5 jack plane and turn it into more of a scrub. No one said they were useless, just not as nice to use. Spend some time, figure out what you want, then go for it. The worst thing you will say is, “Man, I wish I would have had this for that one thing I did way back when.” It happens. At least now you know why you appreciate it now.